Heating is an essential tool in the chemist armory with several different methods of heating available such as the
Hot plate stirrer and oil bath for distillation for distillations.
The heating mantle for reflux,
The Bunsen burner for dissolving or crystallizing samples,
The steam bath is for dissolving samples or heating reactions.
Before carrying out any heating operation, take time to consider the most appropriate method to carry out the task both efficiently and safely.
First, some general points
Always add anti-bumping granules to liquid before heating them – This reduces the risk of hot liquid splashing out of the vessel and causing scars
Never hold flask or test tube in the hand when heating them. Always use a holder such as a wooden peg.
Or support a flask say by clamping the vessel to retort stand.
Lastly, wear gloves.
BURSEN BURNER
The Bunsen burner is the simplest method of heating which should only be used for non flammable liquids.
Before lighting, close the air hole, connect the tube to the gas supply, turn on the gas and immediately light the gas with the spark igniter.
To avoid the danger of accidental burns, whenever a lighted Bunsen is not in immediate use, the air hole should be close to give a luminous yellow flame since this is not easily overlooked.
To adjust the temperature, open the air hole for a hot flame,
Close it to cool the flame.
To heat a flask, clamp it standing on a wire gauze fitted to a tripod.
Add anti-bumping granules.
Then position the lighted Bunsen under the tripod
The gauze spreads the flame and helps prevent erratic boiling.
To begin with, heat cautiously with a cool blue flame not a luminous yellow flame as this will deposit sooth. Then slowly increase the heat.
If boiling becomes too vigorous, close the air hole slightly to cool the flame.
Vary the setting until steady boiling is achieved.
If a liquid is to be heated to a temperature less to boiling, clamp a thermometer so the bulb is suspended in the liquid.
Heat slowly to the desired temperature, then adjust the flame to maintain that temperature.
Test tubes can be heated directly in a Bunsen burner but heat cautiously at the edge of the flame to begin with, constantly moving the tube in the flame to prevent bumping and splashing.
Always ensure that the open end of the test tube is pointed from yourself and other workers.
To increase the heat, move the test to the heart of the flame just above the blue cone but never hold the tube motionless.
When finished, place the test tube in a beaker or test tube stand.
Pear shaped flasks can be heated directly but it is important to keep the flame moving around the flask below the level of the liquid.
Small micro-Bunsen is best for this purpose.
STEAM BATH
Steam bath are commonly used for gentle heating to temperature below 100degrees
Nevertheless care is needed due to the risk of scolding.
Usually, they are electrically heated and it is important to maintain the water level in the bath.
Many baths have drip fixed with drawn off pipes which automatically maintain the level constant.
It’s safest to set up the apparatus before the heating the bath.
Remove the inner metal rings until the flask fits well down in the recess.
The flask should be suspended so that there is a small space within it and the ring.
This will allow a gentle flow of steam to pass up around the flask.
Test tubes can be heated in open cups.
Conical flask can be placed directly on open cups.
But remember that moisture will condense on the equipment so don’t use steam bath for moisture sensitive compounds
STIRRER HOT PLATE
Stirrer Hot Plate can be used to heat non flammable liquid in conical flasks and have the advantage of stirring can be accomplished with a magnetic stirrer bar.
The agitation from the stirrer removes the need to add anti-bumping granules.
There are two control knobs, one controls the heating rate and the other controls the stirring rate.
Start with the heated control at the middle of its range.
Several adjustments may be necessary before a steady rate of boiling is achieved.
If the liquid is to be heated to a temperature less than boiling, then a thermometer can be suspended in the flask but be very careful to keep the bulb away from and above the magnetic stirrer bath.
When finished, turn down the heating control and wait until boiling has ceased.
Then turn off the stirring and raise the flask from the hot plate so that it cools more quickly.
Don’t try to remove the flask until it is cooled sufficiently to handle.
Never leave a hop plate to cool down without some indication that it is still hot.
Some hot plates have indicators which swing out in response to heat that act as a warning
In the absence of such indicator place a beaker of cold water on hot plate to speed the cooling and to warn other workers that the hot plate in been in use.
A hot plate stirrer is often combined with the heating bath which normally contains a non volatile paraffin or silica oil.
But water can be used for bath temperature up to 800C.
Set the bath so that the level of liquid in the flask is just below that of the oil.
Don’t overflow the bath and clean off any liquid split on the outside of the bath.
And as a further protection to the hot plate, cover it with foil.
Turn on the stirrer motor and slowly increase the rate of stirring.
Switch on the heat, monitoring the oil temperature with a thermometer clamped to position.
Heat strongly until the temperature of the oil is 10 – 20 degrees above the temperature required in the flask.
Adjust the heating until the bath settles at this temperature.
Then of a period of about 15min, regularly check the bath temperature to ensure that it is stable.
Oil bath always have a upper temperature limit normally about 2000C depending on the type of oil
D not exceed this limit as obnoxious fumes can be produced.
When finished, switch off the heater and stirrer controls.
Raise the vessel above the bath and allow it to cool. Residual oil on the flask will drain back into the oil bath.
Once the reflux has ceased, remove the condenser.
When the flask is cooled, wipe off excess oil with a tissue so that no oil drips on to the hot palte and the flask isn’t slippery
Then remove the flask.
The oil bath should be left on the hot plate to cool completely before being removed.
Alternatively, the hot plate and bath can be supported on a lab jack which can be raised or lowered as required.
HEATING MANTLES
Heating Mantles are suitable for heating round bottom flasks containing either flammable or non flammable liquids in processes such as reflux but they are not well suited for distillation.
The flask containing the materials and a few anti-bumping granules should fit snugly into the mantle.
If refluxing, fit a condenser. Turn the heater control to half way and wait for 5 – 10mins.
If boiling does not take place, increase the heating in stages until it does.
At the first sign of boiling, turn down the heat slightly.
Continue to adjust the heating control until gentle reflux is achieved.
When finished, switch off the heating mantle, and leave the apparatus to cool before dismantling.
The necessary ventilation in a fume cupboard can produce a strong draft. So when heating in the fume cupboard, always check that the temperature is stable after the window is being lowered.